Every feed, every day, for the last month or so, I’ve scrolled by the doom and gloom: ‘the end of NYFW’. A very hot topic. I suppose it’s left me wondering though if we are apparently so obsessed with the downfall, are we too distracted to see the positive – the collections themselves? The New York fashion scene still exists and it’s still bloody exciting.
Twice a year I suffer from reading list overload; a severe case of too much to read and too little time. I want to spend hours browsing all the shows, analysing every look, trend, texture, and colour. In reality, I have a six-month catch-up attempt (and still barely scrape the surface). For me, it’s less about the big name labels and the dramas of who’s showing where, and more about the creativity. Through fashion, we can get lost in another world completely. Even just for a moment, we are transported from a desk millions of miles away and planted amongst the vibe, forgetting about dramas big and small. Breathe it in.
I’ve chosen to accept the positive, i.e. the collections that are indeed showing, and ignore the negative (it’s truly OK that Proenza Schouler has moved to Paris). Easy to say and do from the other side of the world, I know. It’s true there may be economic backlash or fear for the industry in the US. On the upside though, these spaces in the schedule are making room for younger, fresher labels to make their mark. Half the beauty of fashion week is discovering new talent and glimpsing a brighter future.
Take PH5, for example. As a relatively fresh addition (now in their second season at NYFW), the label captures originality in knitwear. Designers Mijia Zhang and Wei Lin merge technology with wearable design to craft intricate separates. This season stripes have gone gang-busters and hemlines have altered to reflect a floral outline. (I want it so bad).
Fashion has been taken underground too, living up to the gritty side of the city. Last season Mia Vesper staged a guerrilla show right outside Marc Jacobs: friends lurked around the venue in unique upcycled tapestry designs. New York is still the grounds for this exciting talent and alternative thinking; brimming with designers so hell-bent on creating they will do whatever it takes.
Now more than ever is fashion about either escapement or poignant opinion. New York’s list of designers is lacking neither of these. And I’d still take a ticket to New York any day, no matter the labels on show. New York is New York regardless.
(Image via Vogue)